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Sunday, November 14, 2010

Step-By-Step Fire Dragon

I went for a slightly different take on GW's Fire Dragons. I didn't like how bright the orange-red body-suit was, so I decided to darken it up a bit.

Step 1: Basecoat


Step 2: Iyanden Darksun
I was going to be dealing with yellows here, so I wanted a good foundation paint to go down first to make this easier.

Step 3: Golden Yellow
I wasn't worried about edging here, just get it all over where the foundation paint was.

Step 4: Baal Red
This might be where I'd stop for the kind of look that the GW site generally shows for them.

Step 5: Devlan Mud
I washed both the body and the helmet. At this point, the main body armor is done.

Step 6: Golden Yellow
I re-worked the helmet up, staying out of the crevices.
Step 7: Sunburst Yellow
This was to really make that yellow helmet pop, contrasting with the darkened body armor.

Step 8: Charadon Granite
This was used on the gun and the face-plate as a base.

Step 9: Fortress Grey
I highlighted the areas based in Charadon Granite. I built bright with the intention of washing down... but first another color that will be washed.

Step 10: Brazen Brass
For the business end of that Firepike.

Step 11: Badab Black
Here we go. I washed the gun, faceplate and brass bit on the end. The main colors are mostly done; the rest is all detail work to bring the model more to life.

Step 12: Boltgun Metal
Normally, I'd wash this area in black as well, but there's a different effect I like for my Eldar metallic weaponry...

Step 13: Gryphonne Sepia
This was washed over the metal bits. Note that I did not wash this over the tank-treads he's standing on, just the gun's metal bits.

Step 14: Hawk Turquoise
Adding some color for the groin flags. Sorry, I don't know what else to call them, lol.

Step 15: Bleached Bone / Hawk Turquoise
The highlight for the groin flags was a 1:1 mix of the two paints.

Step 16: Shining Gold
This was for the casings around gems as well as for the clasps on the groin flags. Why not, right? Might as well make them the blingest groin flags out there. Haters gonna hate.

Step 17: Codex Grey
This is a basecoat for the rocks he's standing on.

Step 18: Skull White
This was drybrushed lightly over the rock. You want an uneven grainy texture to it.

Step 19: Devlan Mud
This was washed over the gold bits, the rock and the tank tread piece he's standing on.
Ok, let's get started on all those gems...

Step 20: Enchanted Blue
Basecoat for any blue gems.

Step 21: Regal Blue
I added a dark upper section to the blue gems.

Step 22: Ice Blue
A highlight line in the lower section of the blue gems.

Step 23: Snot Green
GW's scheme for the gems on the helmets were alternating red and green, which I kinda dug. Green gems were based in Snot Green.

Step 24: Dark Angels Green
This was the dark section for the green gems.

Step 25: Scorpion Green
This was the highlight line for the green gems. Also, I did the eye-lenses while I had this out.

Step 26: Blood Red
This was the base for the red gems.

Step 27: Scab Red
This was the darker area for the red gems.

Step 28: Fiery Orange
This was for the highlight line in the red gems.

Step 29: Skull White
I applied a small dot of white in the midst of the dark section of each gem.

Step 30: Chaos Black
This was for the large rune on his helmet, though you could leave it yellow if you liked the way the previous step looked.

Step 31: Bleached Bone
This was for those funny little tabs on the wrists and ankles that all the Eldar seem to have. I've been keeping them bone colored across the whole army really for no reason other than consistency's sake.

With the model done, there's just a couple more steps to top off the base, and he'll be done...

Step 32: Calthan Brown
For the dirt.

Step 33: Static Grass
Glue down some grass on that brown!
Well, there we are, my Fire Dragon Exarch is all painted up and ready to point menacingly at his foes! Tell me what you guys think.

Monday, October 11, 2010

Gaming Table!

Behold the new table:
It may not look like much at first, but this is a Geek Chic gaming table.

As you can see, the leaves are removable, revealing a sunken playing surface (that is 6'x4'). I decided not to get the shelves so that I could instead get the deeper playing surface. What I did get instead is several rail accessories that attach to the sides of the table:
Like a dice rolling bin with craps rubbers on the sides (I got two of them, actually), two attachable tables to hold rulebooks/codices, and 6 cup holders (not pictured) for lulz.


The wife and I decided to break it in over the weekend with a small skirmish. After our last battle, she agreed to a simpler setup so that she can better familarize herself with the rules. We both played the exact same list from the same codex (SM) to help minimize any advantage I would have due to list building experience. It was fun, with the highlight being our SM Captains in melee, both taking each other out first turn with powerfists. Game ended (annihilation) with her in the lead, 2 kill points to 1. Dead captains on both sides, but she popped my Rhino (not a euphemism!) to boot.
The arrival of the table was just too exciting not to share. :) I ordered this thing back in November of last year, so it's been almost a full year in the works.

Tuesday, September 21, 2010

5-Step Fur

Following off of the Frostblade tutorial, I figured the other thing to really pick out in this model is the fur, given that the actual Wolf Lord is covered under the Step-By-Step Space Wolf.

Step 1: Astronomican Grey
I covered the wolf entirely with this. Get out your ratty brush, too, all the crannies will mess up any good brush you have.

Step 2: Skull White
Mostly this was drybrushed rather heavily over the wolf. I'm going to bring the color down with a wash, so it's ok if it looks too bright.

Step 3: Badab Black
The wash was applied pretty liberally. If you're looking for a grey-ish kind of wolf you could stop here, but I'm looking for a little more variety so...

Step 4: Skull White
Two things are happening at this step. The head and ears are getting more of a watered down blend in successive layers to build up to what I want. The rest of the fur is getting drybrushed ...
...but you'll notice that I'm applying the drybrush heavier along the legs and underside of the wolf.

Step 5: Devlan Mud
To break up the black/white, I added some Devlan Mud in the areas (mostly the mane, along the back and tail) to get a bit of color in there.

There you have it. It's a relatively fast fur that comes out looking nice, IMO. The wolf isn't done, mind you, but the fur is. What methods do you guys have of painting fur?

Saturday, September 18, 2010

Quick and Easy Frostblade

I'm in the process of painting up my Harald Deathwolf mini (using the Canis model) and whipped out the camera for some quick step-by-steps, the first of which being a 3 step Frostblade.

The blade has been based Boltgun Metal (I left the blade portion unwashed, unlike the rest of the haft).

Step 1: Skull White
What you see above is the result of two to three light drybrushes of white. I'm going for a frosted look, due to the name of the weapon, so the drybrushes are very light.

I do want there to be a bluish hue, despite that I know that frosted metal doesn't necessarily take on a blue color in real life.

Step 2: Asurmen Blue
Unlike with the method I use in standard power weapons, I do not dowse/flood the blade. The application is light; enough to make it blue and fill in cracks/crevices.

Step 3: Skull White
To finish off, I apply one or two more light drybrushes of white. This should be even lighter than the first step, like "dusting" the blade. I normally don't drybrush after a wash, as it tends to look grainy, but in this case I want that grainy look.

Tell me what you think. Do you have a method you like to depict Frostblades? Toss it in the comments, and I might post a link to it. :)
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