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Monday, January 18, 2010

Eldar Jetbikes: Step-By-Step


Eldar Jetbikes. It is about time I got around to painting my squad (I have a 12-man squad, 3 of which are Shuriken Cannons). In celebration of this, I've been reading up on the tactics articles on Fritz's blog The Way of Saim-Hann. Great stuff, you should check it out if you haven't already.

Step 1: Basecoat
Note that during this step-by-step, the models are NOT glued to their stands. I just dry attach them before each picture so you can see how it looks.

Step 2: Mordian Blue
I'm trying a new process to get a good blue (also, because I'm looking to start an Ultramarines army). Lay it down thick and get it in all the crevices.

Step 3: Enchanted Blue
It's an old pot, but not a discontinued color. This was heavily drybrushed over the Mordian Blue.

Step 4: Ice Blue
Light drybrush, mostly along edges.

Step 5: Skull White
Very light drybrush. Only on the edges.

Step 6: Asurmen Blue Wash
As is typical with my style, I like to build brighter than I want, then wash it down. Dowse it.

Step 7: Iyanden Darksun
As the yellows are notoriously thin, anything to be yellow is first done with the foundation paint.

Step 8: Sunburst Yellow
This took 2 to 3 coats, despite the foundation paint to get it good and bright.

I plan to hit this with Devlan Mud, then re-build, but first, there is another color I want to wash with Devlan Mud, so let's get that one ready too.

Step 9: Vermin Fur
This is for all the leather bits.

Step 10: 1:1 mix of Vermin Fur : Bleached Bone
Drybrushed over the leather sections.

Step 11: Devlan Mud Wash
I hit both the helmets and the leather. You'll notice I didn't hit the details on the carapace, because there really was no details for the wash to pick out.

Step 12: Sunburst Yellow
Bring the helmets back up, staying out of the crevices picked out by the Devlan Mud.

Step 13: Bleached Bone
I normally have a 5-step process for bone, but this was an attempt to bring that down to a 2-step.

Step 14: Gryphonne Sepia
Washed over the bone. It's a good quick effect, though I think I'll be going back to the 5-step from here on out.

Step 15: Boltgun Metal
Foot pedals, handlebars and all the mechy bits under the seat were drybrushed with this. I do apologize for the bad angle on the pic, you can hardly see where it was applied.

Step 16: Gryphonne Sepia Wash
Here's a better view of those bits I was talking about. I generally wash Boltgun Metal with Gryphonne Sepia for Tau and Eldar, because it gives the metal a neat almost alien look, but not rusty.

Step 17: Macharius Solar Orange
Most of my Alaitoc Eldar are gingers. :) Here's the steps I use to get that red-head look.

Step 18: Tausept Ochre
Light drybrush.

Step 19: Devlan Mud Wash
3-step redhead. It may not be bright red like my wife's hair, but I like it nonetheless.

Step 20: Jade Green (Snot Green)
This is for the gemstones. Unfortunately, GW has discontinued Jade Green as a color. It's really a shame, as Jade Green was a very saturated color. Nice and bright. I would suggest as an alternative to use Snot Green. It's as close as you're going to get (as far as the GW paints) without mixing a proprietary blend.

Step 21: Dark Angels Green
Applied to the upper left area of the gemstones.

Step 22: Putrid Green (Scorpion Green)
Another discontinued color. They re-named it Scorpion Green. This is applied as a curved line in the lower right area of the gemstones. Also, I used it to paint the eyes.

Step 23: Skull White
A small highlight dot in the middle of the Dark Angels Green on the gemstones.

With the models themselves done, we move on to the bases...

Step 24: Calthan Brown basecoat
Mmm, earthy.

Step 25: Basing sand/rocks
It's important to note that in order to get a good solid hold on the basing material, it was applied in three steps. First, lay down the PVA glue (Elmer's White). Next, sprinkle/pour on the basing material. Lastly, after the glue has dried and you've shaken off the excess, coat it with a watered down PVA. This will make sure you don't lose sand over time.

Step 26: Devlan Mud Wash
I like my earth dark.

Step 27: Static Grass
Lay down some PVA glue, sprinkle on the static grass, then gently blow the excess off (this will also make the grass stand up).

Voila! Guardian Jetbikes:
I think the most fun/interesting part to all this was coming up with unique designs for the carapaces. I didn't want any bike pattern to be duplicated. I view the Eldar as a very eclectic bunch, and while disciplined (and Alaitoc are notoriously stern), I like to think of the jetbikes (and Storm Guardians) as one step from taking the path of the Ranger. Hence the leather jackets and individualistic carapace designs.

Let me know what you think.

8 comments:

  1. I always enjoy your step-by-step painting guides...you make it look so easy....
    ....I only wish it was that easy....LOL.

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  2. Very nice and smooth! Good job man! :D

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  3. As usual, very nice and awesome results. Brownie points for giving alternative colors as well. Your guides should be on GW's page as you put them to shame.

    Now onto the Alaitoc, being a fellow Alaitoc in hiding (a.k.a. having models but haven't begun painting) I have a few questions:

    What's your five step wraithbone like?
    What's your opinion/take on the typical Alaitoc mottled blue? I like the idea but not the sometimes less than stellar look. I prefer a smother mottled effect. Are you going for this with the drybrush? Do you do stippling? Think using an airbrush could work or is that more Tau? I do want to try my airbruh out:)
    You like drybrushing. Not a question, just something I thought of:)
    I found the gryphonne sepia wash on the metal interesting. Seen it done with thrakka green before and I've even done some asurmen blue. What's your take on the alternative washes? I for instance have used Baal red on gold for a red gold type of look (pretty neat).

    Look forward to seeing the other seven designs:)

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  4. I like how the blue was done on the jet bikes. The last wash made everything blend together nicely and they came out looking great.

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  5. @Magilla/Alvin/Oni: :)

    @Flekkzo: I wish they would be on GW's site. That would rule.

    @Flekkzo's questions:

    5-step Wraithbone/normal bone: Dheneb Stone basecoat, Devlan Mud wash, heavy Bleached Bone drybrush, light Skull White drybrush, Gryphonne Sepia wash. You can see it best in the Skulltaker step-by-step I did a while back.

    I've done a mottled blue before, and liked it ... but I'm still working on perfecting it. Latest one I did was a Wraithlord I did two years back. This was before I really got into washes, so I need to revisit that...

    Tau vs Eldar: If anything, I think Tau go better with edges and angles, Eldar with curves. Either can use mottled effects well.

    I do like drybrushing because it's quick. Though as a rule, I only drybrush when it will be followed up by a wash ... with only two exceptions. Bone and Chitin/carapace effects. Drybrushing can give very grainy effects, and without a wash to smooth it out, it really only looks right on something that should be grainy ... like bone or 'nid carapaces.

    I need to try Baal red on gold. I've played with the other colors on Boltgun metal with my ork mekboys ... which I might do more of soon.

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  6. @Darksol Very interesting stuff. I am really wondering if one can do any mottling with a paintbrush, but maybe I could do some other neat effect with different blues. We shall see:) Also post if you try Baal Red on gold. Curious of both your take and your results:)

    And again your painting guides are so nice with short steps between the pictures. A+

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  7. Genial brief and this fill someone in on helped me alot in my college assignement. Thanks you on your information.

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  8. Very nice step-by-step. I like it. I learnt a few things.

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